Cycling, Castles, and Comfort: A Perfect Week on the Rhine with AmaWaterways
In November 2023, my husband Tom and I embarked on our first-ever cruise with AmaWaterways, setting sail from Basel, Switzerland, with Amsterdam as our final destination. As self-proclaimed land lovers, the thought of a cruise with thousands of passengers had always been intimidating. But after experiencing a river cruise with AmaWaterways, we can confidently say that this is how cruising should be done as an introduction.
AmaWaterways offers a range of optional daily excursions, from easy to strenuous. Since we love cycling, we often opted for bike tours, which gave us a unique way to explore the local landscape. The ease of hopping off the boat and onto an excursion, with everything organised—coaches, local guides, and equipment—was a real highlight. I don’t know about you, but I love having a break from organising anything, including where, when and what to eat. The only daily decision I had to make was which excursions to choose and what to wear!
Why Choose a River Cruise?
If you’re looking to ease into cruising without the overwhelm of a massive ship, a river cruise is the perfect choice. With fewer than 200 guests on board, we enjoyed the intimacy and relaxed pace that larger ships may not offer. Our boat was never crowded, and we quickly got to know the other cruisers—mostly Americans, with a few Singaporeans and us Brits. The smaller number of guests made everything feel more personal, from the excursions to the onboard service.
Of course, if you’re more of an introvert (like my husband Tom), the river cruise offers flexibility in terms of socialising. The ship’s dining setup lets you choose your level of interaction: you can sit alone, in pairs, or join larger tables—so if socialising feels too much after a day of sightseeing, you can retreat to your own space without any pressure. The atmosphere is always accommodating, whether you’re looking for quiet reflection or camaraderie.
A Day-by-Day Experience: Exploring the Rhine
Day one: Exploring Basel
Before we set sail, we had a chance to explore Basel, a city rich in history and culture. Basel’s medieval old town is a maze of charming narrow streets, but we also visited some of its top cultural landmarks. The Kunstmuseum was a standout, showcasing impressive works of Swiss and international artists, and we couldn’t miss the Tinguely Museum, dedicated to the whimsical kinetic sculptures of artist Jean Tinguely. We also took a stroll along the Rhine River Promenade, enjoying the city’s scenic views. Basel’s blend of modern and traditional architecture made it the perfect introduction to our European river journey.
Day two: Breisach & the Black Forest
Our cruise began with a hike through a beautiful section of the Black Forest, which reminded me of sections of the South West Coast Path I’ve walked in South West England. A well-deserved slice of authentic Black Forest cake followed this.
Day three: Strasbourg by Bike
Strasbourg was a standout. We biked through this stunning city, covering far more ground than we would have on foot. It’s the perfect city for a bike tour, as it is very flat, and cycling moves you along at the right pace—fast enough to see a lot but slow enough to soak in the scenery. The Alsace wine tasting afterwards was the cherry on top (for a wine lover like me, anyway!). Though some excursions can feel rushed (Strasbourg has much to offer), the bike tour was a great way to see more quickly.
Day four and five: Rüdesheim & the UNESCO Rhine Gorge
Rüdesheim was packed with activities, including a bike tour through the famous Rheingau vineyards and the Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Museum. However, the day’s highlight was cruising through the UNESCO-listed Rhine Gorge. The views were breathtaking, with castles dotting the landscape at nearly every turn. The grey mizzling weather didn’t dampen our spirits, as the scenery was spectacular. By evening, we enjoyed a tasting menu at the Chef’s Table followed by live music and dancing—a perfect end to an action-packed day.
Day six: Cologne on Two Wheels
Cologne was another favourite. After starting the day with a relaxing wash and blow-dry onboard (a luxury cruise and it would be rude not to!), we hopped on our bikes for a city tour. We cycled through the city’s many parks—one of its most distinctive features—before stopping to admire the awe-inspiring Cologne Cathedral. The mix of urban cycling and historic sites made for a perfect day.
Day seven: Amsterdam in the Rain
Our final stop was Amsterdam, and though it rained, it didn’t dampen the city’s charm. It had been nearly 30 years since my last visit, and it’s changed quite a bit—more upscale, with even more bikes than I remember! As much as we enjoyed exploring Amsterdam, one of the best aspects of the river cruise was returning to the same bed every night—no packing and unpacking, no hotel check-ins, just seamless comfort.
What Made This Cruise Special
No Packing, No Unpacking
The convenience of staying in the same room throughout the journey was a game changer. There was no need to lug luggage around; there was just pure enjoyment of each new destination in different countries – WOW!
Choice & Flexibility with Excursions
Every day, we had the option to choose from various excursions. Whether we wanted a relaxing bike ride, a history-filled hike, or a local walking tour, there was something for every interest and every level of fitness for twenty-somethings to the over-eighties. And because everything was so well-organised, we seldom felt rushed. It was easy to get off and back on the ship (in minutes), and we had time to explore.
Incredible Food & Drink
The food and drink options were endless, with plenty of regional specialities to sample. I may have overindulged once or twice (okay, maybe more), but it’s part of the experience! Sip and Sail every evening at 6pm was a treat, with the chance to sample a different cocktail every day.
4. Fellow Travellers
It’s always a joy to meet new people, and we were lucky to bond with fellow guests from the U.S. (Big love to Danielle and Toni pictured). After a week of shared adventures, we left with new friends and memories to last a lifetime. But if you don’t like socialising much, there’s no pressure. You can enjoy the cruise at your own pace, whether joining the group or spending quiet moments alone by opting out of excursions.
5. The Ever-Changing Scenery
Perhaps the most captivating part of the trip was watching the riverbanks change every hour —the Rhine’s views, colours, and sounds were mesmerising and these vistas I will never forget. There was always something to take in, whether cycling through vineyards or gazing at castles on a river cruise.
The Only Disadvantage: Winter Weather
Our November trip was beautiful, but the winter chill meant we couldn’t take full advantage of the ship’s deck or spend much time outside. That said, this is just one of those trade-offs that comes with cruising in the off-season. Summer cruises would provide more outdoor opportunities, but the winter cruise had its own charm – perfect for cosying up inside with a glass of wine if you have the time!
Why AmaWaterways Stands Out
For anyone considering a Rhine River cruise, AmaWaterways is an exceptional choice. The smaller ship, more personal service, and various excursions made this a standout experience for Tom and I. If you’ve ever shied away from cruising because of the crowds, any stigma attached to cruising (yes, I was a snob, and now I’ll be eating humble pie!), or the size of traditional ships, a river cruise is the perfect way to ease in. With the freedom to choose excursions, the comfort of a familiar bed each night, and the ever-changing landscape of this beautiful river, this cruise far exceeded our expectations.
Whether you’re looking for adventure, relaxation, or just a little quiet time on board, AmaWaterways ensures you can enjoy your journey at your own pace. It’s a cruising experience that truly caters to every kind of traveller.
Day-by-Day Highlights on Instagram
For anyone who wants to see more of our Rhine River cruise journey, I’ve saved day-by-day trip accounts on my Instagram @feronclarkstyle in my highlights. If you scroll back on my feed to November 2023, you’ll find many videos that capture even more of the stunning scenery, activities, and experiences that photos can’t do justice to. These snapshots in the blog only show a tiny fraction of what we saw and did—it was truly a week full of unforgettable moments!
I hope you enjoyed reading my blog and do let me know if you found it helpful and if I’ve convinced you to try an AmaWaterways River Cruise.
Photo taken in Basel
Photo taken in Amsterdam
